The Slow Bar was lucky enough to snag chef Amy Jermain, a real up-and-comer. At age 28, Jermain has already logged experience cooking at Higgins, Paley's Place and most recently Tabla, the hipster small-plates spot on Northeast 28th Avenue.

Jermain keeps her menu small, altering dishes slightly to reflect the market. The daily ravioli -- recently puffed with a filling of potatoes and Parmesan -- might boast a deep autumnal sauce thick with matsutake, chanterelle and lobster mushrooms or a winter's-coming blend of braised lamb shoulder and tomato sauce. A pile of voluptuous mussels, still in their helmets, recently arrived on a delicate pool of apple-cider curry with a comforting slab of toasted bread for dunking.

The daily ceviche -- often built around albacore tuna, scallops or shrimp -- stands out, too, its brisk, aromatic notes drawn from cilantro, fruity olive oil, tomatillos and habanero peppers, all amplified by the crunch of fresh chips on the side. For dessert, a panna cotta shot through with good bittersweet chocolate and heavy cream gets a notable boost from toasted almonds and Jermain's homemade candied orange peel.

Jermain, who first picked up her kitchen chops kicking around France and Spain, is passionate about serving casual food while supporting local farmers and sustainability (Northwest cuisine philosopher and farm-networker supreme Vitaly Paley says she turned him on to a few growers).

The food is not studied or self-focused but notable for how simply good it can be, full of integrated flavors that subtly merge in an appealing way. Where else can you lay into a vast and delish Painted Hills beef burger on a brioche bun with pancetta, frisee and home- made relish, or an albacore tuna ceviche?
Keep your eye on Jermain -- she's going places!

Review courtesy of Karen Brooks / The Oregonian

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