Bring in 'da noise, bring in 'da punk

We labor under a stereotype: punk rockers live on BLTs held together with giant safety pins and bowls of corn flakes and vodka. And, of course, fast food. But ravioli in a wild mushroom sauce tinctured with truffle oil? Or panna cotta under a goth-black glaze of huckleberries poached in red wine? That's right. The energy for all that anger and bluster, the cuisine that emerged out of all those neo-creations, is starting to look a lot like . . . Higgins. In fact, if Higgins -- that stylish culinary outpost of all things Northwest -- hitched up with Satyricon, the famed underground rock club that attracted punk ideologues and PSU professors -- their love child would be a dead ringer for Slow Bar. That's because this new hangout -- located in the old Caswells spot on Southeast Grand -- is a place of intriguing contrasts. An ambitious collection of old- school punk and new wave blasts from a corner jukebox while the kitchen pumps out serious food with a healthy dose of farm-fresh produce and high-end ingredients. No place else I've ever seen, especially when you factor in the good, salty fries, the street-cred prices and the spare, hi-lo design scheme, complete with cavernous, circular booths that feel big enough to elect their own mayor and city council. Up front, there's a nook with armless, milky-white sofas set beneath frosted glass windows, an area the owners call "the Champagne room" -- which makes sense given that the bar sells almost as much $60 a bottle Veuve Clicquot Yellow Labelchampagne as it does Rebel Yell, the obscure honey/smoky/caramelesque bourbonnotoriously favored by rockers Keith Richards and Jim Morrison. The back story: Owners Rob Hemmerling, 34, and Michael Banash, 28, have been attending punk-rock shows in Portland since they were teens. But they grew tired of dive bars with crummy drinks and decided to create a fun place known for good, clean cocktails, which accounts for a bar well stocked with top-shelf liquors along-side standard "well" material. Beer runs the gamut, too: Lindeman's Framboise, a Belgian dessert wine, keeps company here with a Hamm's tallboy. But what drives the concept here is a distinct philosophy. As Hemmerling put it: "Punks like good food, too." Where else can you lay into a vast and delish Painted Hills beef burger on a brioche bun with pancetta, frisee and home- made relish, or an albacore tuna ceviche

while humming (OK, whipping your head around -- who's looking?) to the Clash, the Sex Pistols or David Byrne? The Slow Bar was lucky enough to snag chef Amy Jermain, a real up-and-comer. At age 28, Jermain has already logged experience cooking at Higgins, Paley's Place and most recently Tabla, the hipster small-plates spot on Northeast 28th Avenue. Jermain, who first picked up her kitchen chops kicking around France and Spain, is passionate about serving casual food while supporting local farmers and sustainability (Northwest cuisine phil- osopher and farm-networker supreme Vitaly Paley says she turned him on to a few growers). Jermain keeps her menu small, altering dishes slightly to reflect the market. The daily ravioli --recently puffed with a filling of potatoes and Parmesan -- might boast a deep autumnal sauce thick with matsutake, chanterelle and lobstermushrooms or a winter's-coming blend of braised lamb shoulder and tomato sauce. A pile of voluptuous mussels, still in their helmets, recently arrived on a delicate pool of apple-cidercurry with a comforting slab of toasted bread for dunking. The food is not studied or self-focused but notable for how simply good it can be, full of integrated flavors that subtly merge in an appealing way. Keep your eye on Jermain -- she's going places. Not every dish rocks. One night's fritto misto, beer-battered fried vegetables tasting mostly of grease, made sense only in the context of the music pumping on the sound system: the Ramones singing "I Wanna be Sedated." And a jaw-stretching braised beef rib sandwich was all sloppy texture and no flavor. Vicious. The daily ceviche -- often built around albacore tuna, scallops or shrimp -- stands out, too, its brisk, aromatic notes drawn from cilantro, fruity olive oil, tomatillos and habanero peppers, all amplified by the crunch of fresh chips on the side. For dessert, a panna cotta shot through with good bittersweet chocolate and heavy cream gets a notable boost from toasted almonds and Jermain's homemade candied orange peel. So far the formula is attracting a loyal crowd, especially at lunch, which draws a spirited mix of people who normally only meet on an elevator: skullcaps and suits, local chefs in street clothes. It's a self-selecting group: You won't see many ties here at night, when the juke is in full blitzkrieg mode and smokers run free. But come if you must in daylight, and remember this: The next time you see some anti-people passing anti-time, consider that one of them may grow up to open a place like the Slow Bar -- a fun place that can feed your rebellious center and your palate.

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Grade: B+ Cuisine and Scene: Punks go up-scalish at a spot that mingles slymodern design touches with aggresive music, subtly sophisticated Northwest/Italian bar food and high-end liquors. Both tats and ties make the scene. Must-Have Dishes: Slowburger with hand cut fries: daily ravioli: ceviche with albacore tuna: Guinness fondue: bittersweet chocolate panna cotta. Vegetarian Friendly?: A couple of options such as panini with herbed goat cheese or pizetta with wild mushrooms. Sound Level: Moderate by day, screaming by night when the jukebox lights up. Service: Friendly and casual. Strength: A place that knows what it wants to be and succeeds at its' vision; after Higgins, Portland's best straight-ahead bar. Flaw: If you don't like loud punk - new wave music - or having your clothes smell like smoke - don't even bother. Price Range: Everything under $10 Extras: Major credit cards: full bar: street parking: disabled access: smoking. Serving: Lunch: 11:30-2:30 p.m. Dinner: 2:30 p.m.-2:30 a.m. Mondays-Fridays and 5:00 p.m.-2:30 a.m. Saturdays-Sundays. The Numbers: 533 SE Grand Ave. 503-230-7767 - www.slowbar.net

Karen Brooks: 503-221-8230; kbrooks@news.oregonian.com

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